Beginner's Cold Cathode Installation

Required Tools:

Wire Crimp/Cutter

Phillips Head Screwdriver

Flathead Screwdriver

Small Torx screw kit

Mini Add-a-Circuit

Crimp connectors and grounding terminal end

20gauge wire (I used less than 40cm)

Electrical tape

12Volt Cold Cathode kit

Instructions

Cold Cathode preparation
1) Plug both cathodes into the inverter (shown as a blue box in the figure).
2) Connect the red and black wires into the other end of the inverter.
3) Cut the black wire. Make the cut as far away from the blue inverter as possible.
4) The red wire leads to a switch. From the switch, the wire then turns yellow.
Cut that yellow wire. Make the cut as far away from the switch as possible.

Add-a-Circuit preparation
Follow the instructions included in the Add-a-circuit packaging.
1) Insert one of the included fuses into Slot A.

Extending the wires
1) Strip about 4mm of wire from the yellow and black wire ends you just cut
2) Procure at least 40cm of 20gauge wire (I got yellow for simplicity's sake)
and strip each end of wire.
3) Use your wire crimp tool, crimp the black wire to the ground terminal.
Later, you will ground to the radio chassis screw.
4) Use your crimp tool to crimp and connect the yellow wire (that came from the switch)
to your 40cm of additional wire
5) Connect and crimp this yellow wire to your Add-a-Circuit (red) wire.

HVAC Knob removal
1) Turn your AC knob all the way to the left, and pull the knob toward yourself 2) The other three knobs may be removed similarly; by turning all the way to
the left or right, then pulling towards yourself.

Removing HVAC surround bezel
These procedures are similar to Mopar's Stage Two (S2, Stage 2) with Turbo Toys wiring
bezel removal instructions.

1) Tilt the AC vents down.
2) Gently, with firm pressure, pop out the outer side of the vent out of its position.
The other side of the vent will come out easily.
3) Repeat on the other vent.
4) Unscrew the two screws that are located in each vent (Total 2 screws).
5) Start at the top, and pull at the surrounding bezel. Work your way around as you tug.
6) Using firm even pressure all the way around will ensure you do not break the plastic.
tabs on the bezel. Removal reveals a white plastic fitting
7) Use a phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws on the white HVAC control fitting.
8) Pull the white plastic HVAC fitting away from the dashboard until you have enough room
to insert a screwdriver (from overhead) over one of the radio chassis screws. The driver's
side screw is the easiest to access. In my image, the chassis screw is covered in electrical tape (after grounding).
9) Take a phillips screwdriver and come from above to unscrew one of the radio chassis
mount screws.

Wiring the Cathode "kit" in the car

Grounding
1) Place the complete "kit" on the floor in the space behind the radio, etc.
2) Fish the black, ground wire through the driver's side of the dash molding.
3) Get the wire end up where the driver's side radio chassis screw is located.
4) Place the screw through the grounding loop at the end of the wire.
5) Tighten the radio chassis screw to secure the grounding wire to the radio chassis.

Fuse connection 1) Locate the panel beneath the steering wheel.
2) Unscrew the two screws on the panel.
3) Gently raise the lower section of the panel.
4) Unhook the upper portion of the panel. It hooks up just below the speedometer and
tachometer area.
5) Fish the yellow wire(with that has the Add-a-Circuit end on it) through
the panel area, below the steering mechanism.
6) Secure the wire with tie wraps as necessary. Cut the extra length of tie wraps.
7) Be sure to allow for proper movement of the steering column and any other moving parts.
8) Open the driver's side door to expose a fuse panel door.
9) Remove the fuse panel on the driver's side of the dash.
10) Select a fuse to remove.
11) Insert the fuse you removed into Slot B of your Add-a-Circuit
12) Fish the yellow wire up to the fuse box and insert it into the fuse slot you removed.
I chose fuse 7. Power is only given to that fuse with the key in the "Accessory" position.
13) Secure all loose, hanging wires, your cathode inverter, and your cathodes on each side of
the vehicle.
14) For the driver's side, I tie-wrapped and velcroed around a plastic pipe just under the
steering wheel.
15) For the passenger's side I velcroed just under and behind the glove compartment. One velcro
on each metal tab.
16) For the switch, I temporarily mounted it on the driver's side in the crevice between the
change holder and the rest of the center console.

Testing
1) Turn your car into the Accessory position.
2) Slide the switch on your cathode switch.
3) Use your tilt-wheel to be sure you have proper clearance.

Troubleshooting
If your cathodes do not light:

Add-a-Circuit

Try double-checking your connections/crimps. Final Steps

1) Re-assemble your steering wheel panel.
2) Re-assemble your HVAC assembly

Pics*

*The visible neon light is a separate, less bright, neon light used for testing purposes.
The wire hanging below the accessory jack is...an accessory. No cathode light wires are
visible.

Thanks to srtforums.com for help. Specifically, smoger, gotwake?, xxsportscar, and an Evo buddy for the online & phone assists.

last update: 01.04.05. mail here for correction and suggestions

Old-style Greddy catch-can install (outdated)

This page best viewed with Mozilla. If you do not have it, you may download it by clicking the button below.

::: Made with CoffeeCup : Website Design Software & Web Hosting :::